Ripoff Report > Midas Auto Service Expe Review - Houston ...

Every D1 Exotic yet to return in D2

So awhile back (probably about a year ago) I made a personal list of Exotic weapons and armor from D1 that had yet to be updated to D2. With the recent announcement of old-new Exotics in Beyond Light, I figured I’d go back and revise/finish it based on what we’ve seen now.
Generally, if an Exotic needs a major rework to fit into the D2 sandbox, already has it's design space taken by other weapons, and/or wasn’t all that popular in D1, I consider it unlikely to return. Pretty much every D1 Exotic has been buffed compared to it's original counterpart, and even then some don’t get used much (see Bad Juju, or MIDA post-Y1). I’ve seen suggestions like turning NLB into a heavy sniper, or Plan C into a new Loaded Question, but if a gun needs to stray that far from its original identity, IMO it just warrants making a wholly new weapon. I’m far from an expert game designer though, and this is all personal opinion/general observations, so feel free to tell me I’m wrong in the comments.
Also: There may be some unmarked (but still widely-known and official) spoilers by process of elimination, so if you don’t want to know literally anything about future Exotics, best turn back now.

Hand Cannons:

Auto Rifles:

Pulse Rifles:

Scout Rifles:

Sidearms:

Sniper Rifles:

Fusion Rifles:

Shotguns:

Machine Guns:

Swords:

Rocket Launchers

Armor: Armor is a bit different, as Bungie completely revamped some armor pieces to fit in D2 (RIP Khepri’s Sting), essentially making a whole new Exotic but with a recycled model. Reprised armor also isn’t nearly as common as weapons (likely for that reason)- the last batch was in Opulence last year, and before that all the way back in Warmind. And we didn’t even get any new armor this season, so it seems Exotic Armor is a pretty low priority for Bungie at this point. But here’s what all is still left in D1 by class (not counting class items which were Exotic in name only, the faction ones didn’t even have a unique model):

Hunters

Helmets:

Chest:

Arms:

Legs:

Titans

Helmets:

Chest:

Arms:

Boots:

Warlocks

Helmets:

Chests:

Arms:

Boots

submitted by Flyinpenguin117 to DestinyTheGame [link] [comments]

Trollygag's Noob Guide to the 1000 Yard AR-15 (Update)

Foreword:

This was originally written in 2017, but I have updated it to be in line with new entries into the market.
These opinions are based off my own experiences with my own rifles as a long range, non-competitive shooter. These opinions should be largely uncontroversial to the folks who shoot long range, but this is an attempt to codify it rather than having to repeat on every ask.
The guide is targeted for the uninitiated wanted to purchase their first 'long range' rifle and get their feet wet.
If you are a competitive shooter, you know more about your sport than I do, and this guide really isn't for you.
Prices and ballistics are current as of July 5, 2020.

Additional Reading

/longrange
/SmallGroups
/ar15
/6arc
Trollygag's Stats on Barrel Length
Trollygag's Opinion on Picking a Barrel Length
On-Paper Cartridge Comparison
Borescope comparison of barrels
Trollygag's Youtube Channel with some parts review and shooting

Glamour Shots

Super Grendel
Gator Grendel
Savage in F/TR dress
Buddy

I want to buy/build a long range AR-15

5.56 NATO vs 6.5G

223 Rem/5.56 NATO

Good 1000 yard ballistics are hard to get in an AR-15. Even harder if you want it semi-auto as well and want it in a dinky cartridge.
You know when you sneeze in a stream of sunlight and dust goes swirling through the air? That's what shooting 223 Rem is like. Semi-auto is worse as you can't use a lot of the 80gr+ class bullets that beat the wind better than the common 77gr SMK.
I shoot on a 20" Rock Creek barreled LMT SLK8 at 1000 yards every once in awhile, and it is tough to see impacts, tough to make wind calls, tough to hear hits, just tough in general.
The round goes subsonic at about 850 yards. It has to contend with 11 feet of windage for every 10mph of wind/gust. That is brutal.
Cost-wise, yea, there are some cheap options out there for brass case plinking ammo, but box match ammo costs over $1/round and isn't any cheaper than other options. Handloading can save money as bullets and powder charges are typically cheap, but to save money with handloading, the 77 SMKs that are super popular in box ammo are out of the running due to cost.
Fortunately, you can make up some ground with the cheaper 22 cal ELD-Ms or HPBTs if you can get the seating depth right.
I think the newer Hornady bullet options are going to make the 223 Rem/5.56 shine as good as it ever will semi-auto. Then if you want to do some careful load development and shoot single-shot (turn off gas system, for example), then you can really get some decent ballistics.

6.5 Grendel

There are box ammo options like Federal Gold Medal Berger and the Hornady Black that will get you to 1000 yards pretty easily and stay supersonic out to 1150 yards. These cost $1 to $1.25/round depending on how much wind beating you want.
Best case, 7.5 feet of windage for every 10 mph of wind/gust. Except for some of the top heavyweight bullets (think ammo at $2.50/round) out there for 308 Win, those 6.5G box options will beat just about any other 308 Win match ammo options. Pretty good.
There is also $0.22-0.24/round cheap steel case, steel jacket plinking ammo. There are also $0.70/round brass case ammo options.
Unfortunately, there is nothing in-between. There is no FMJ brass case options at $0.35-0.50/round like there are in 308 Win or 5.56.
6.5G is becoming more common in stores, which is great. The box ammo is also really good.
However, it has a reputation for being a finicky cartridge for a handloader as the bullets are often longer ogive than the bullets for longer throat cartridges like 6.5x47L or 6.5CM. That longer ogive makes them harder to get seated right and can be sensitive to how the chamber is cut.
I believe this is changing, as the new 130 Bergers and ELD-Ms seem to be much more chambethroat friendly, with a ogive that is shorter but more compound and curved than the previous generation of 120s that spawned the finicky 123s.
To make a 6.5G AR, you need a different barrel, different bolt (but not bolt carrier), and different magazines. That's it.
Companies like Grendel Hunter have made good shooting Grendels much more accessible.
It is also legal for hunting while some of the other options, like the .224 Valk, are not in many states.
In short, I think 6.5G is good to go.

.224 Valkyrie

This is a new entry on the list from the last guide update. The Valk is a 6.8 SPC-like case necked down to 22 cal.
It can push the 90gr SMK to 2700 FPS from a 24” barrel with impressive ballistics, with the trade to the Grendel being in less barrel life and less drop for less recoil.
Valk had some growing pains with ammo quality control and throat reamers, but now seems to be pretty well sorted out.
However, it is harder to find a well built Valkyrie upper, so you may be rolling your own build.

6 ARC

This is a brand new cartridge from Hornady that you can read about on 6ARC . It is essentially the same cartridge of the now 15+ year old 6AR – 6.5 Grendel necked down to 6mm. One change is that 6ARC has the shoulder pushed back every so slightly vs 6AR, ostensibly for ‘reliability’ (though it isn’t clear how), but more likely so that Hornady can get some claims to inventiveness and to keep you from chambering a Grendel in a 6AR barrel.
One shady aspect is that Hornady did their marketing and advertising with promo videos comparing it to the 6.5 Grendel with the 123gr load. That load is what Hornady has chosen to offer the Grendel in, but which is inferior to the 130gr loads used in handloads and offered by some other companies in box ammo. Why Hornady willfully ignored the popular 130gr loadings and doesn’t offer Grendel ammo with their own 130gr ELD-M is anyone’s guess.
The ballistics are already very well understood for this cartridge, and it will likely offer performance [somewhere inbetween Grendel and Valk](www.shooterscalculator.com/ballistic-trajectory-chart.php?t=730383ff), with velocities and barrel life to match. In short, they’re all basically the same for external ballistics.
We don’t yet know who will be producing brass or what options there will be for ammo, or who will be offering barrels or rifles or uppers for sale, but Odin and CMMG are.
6AR and 6ARC has an advantage over Grendel in that you can buy flat based BR style bullets in 6mm that you can’t find in 6.5mm.

300 BLK/6.8 SPC

These are not long range rounds. Okay, so maybe they perform similarly to the 77 SMK 5.56 on paper or sometimes in practice.
But they cost a lot. Ammo that does that is $1.65/pop for 300 BLK and $1.15/pop for 6.8 SPC. Okay, and 6.8 SPC isn't that much more expensive than the 77 SMK BHA ammo. And it's hunting ammo so it probably is pretty effective.
But, as you can see, both of those options cost about the same as 6.5G and get crushed. It's going to be tough to get the other logistics worked out. What barrel are you going to use? I like long, high accuracy barrels. Not many of those in either 300 BLK or 6.8.
I would not recommend this option, but it would be a fun YOLO build.

Wildcats

There are a lot of these. Some based on the 6.8 case, some based on the PPC case, some in 22 cal for 90gr bullets, some in 6mm... Most of these claim great ballistics but only because they haven't gone through pressure testing and SAAMI hasn't made them figure out bolt thrust numbers.
6.5G went through the same phases, with early data being outrageously hot and good looking on paper, and later data being 'neutered'. You can still get hot loads out of it, but it needs to be in a bolt gun because the AR-15 bolt can't handle that kind of force over and over again.
In that way, some of these are better suited for AKs or the newer AR-10 bolt, AR-15 body hybrids. Or just ignore the wildcats. Most of them don't offer much over 6.5G anyways, and the load data and ammo availability is scarce.

Parts Guide

A long range gun needs sufficient barrel length to get the ballistics you want and barrel quality good enough that you can focus on wind and wind calls and not the inaccuracy of your rifle. In the same vein, you want to eliminate the ammo and human mechanics as much as possible, so typically LR shooters use match ammo and guns that are ergonomic, stable, and easy to shoot accurately.

Budget

Long range shooting can be expensive. A 'cheap' entry level build in 5.56 will likely run about $1000. I typically spend ~40% of the cost of the rifle on an optic, and with mount, that may total closer to $1500 for the complete rifle. Gator Grendel started off as a 'budget' 6.5G build before parts were quite so cheap and with a nice Shilen barrel, and was about $2500. Super Grendel was a more indulgent build and is coming pretty close to $4000.
An off the shelf LMT SLK8 with a 20" Rock Creek cut rifled barrel set up for long range and with a monolithic upper will cost you around $2800.
So get familiar with those kinds of numbers and pick your budget. Typically alternate cartridge LR builds will be a little more expensive (by $100-300) more than the equivalent 5.56 because the barrels tend to be more expensive and often the bolts alone cost as much as a 5.56 BCG.

Barrel

A few names to be familiar with: LaRue, Liberty, Criterion, Bartlein. There are other makes out there, but I feel these present the best rounding out of the options and that are widely available.

Triggers

Optic Choices

There are lots of good optics on the market. All of these are FFP, and have christmas tree reticles.
Keep an eye on the optic sales thread

Optic Mounts

You want a single piece cantilever mount. The AR-15 receiver typically does not have enough rail to give good eye relief, so a 1"+ extension is usually good for getting the scope into a usable position.
Cheap:
The SSALT uses sleeves, the PEPR does not and looks like a chunk of aluminum. SSALT is my preference, though both have worked well for me.
Not Cheap:

Furniture

I have played with a few options:

Building

I'm not going to go over building an AR. There are lots of resources for this. I will, however, give you some tips.
Putting together the AR is pretty cheap and easy... except for the barrel and muzzle device. Both of these have pitfalls.
To mount a muzzle device, you should put the torque on the barrel and only on the barrel. That means a Geissele reaction rod, Magpul BEV block, or barrel vise. People often do this by clamping the receiver. I do it too. It's not a great idea. People end up breaking pins and bending receivers and unscrewing the barrel from the extension.
To mount a barrel, this is the step that requires the most care, forethought, and tools. It requires a vice, nut compatible wrench depending on your nut design, careful application of specially chosen grease, careful alignment, special action block (or reaction rod from above), knowledge of how torque works, and ideally, headspace gauges. If you aren't careful, you can fuck up the nut, receiver, or barrel (if you're very, very special). That can add up to a good bit of money.
You may consider paying a gunsmith to correctly install the barrel and muzzle device. It shouldn't cost much and should be a lot cheaper than doing it yourself, unless your gunsmith is gouging.
Good receiver to barrel extension fit is crucial to avoid stringing. This can be achieved by freeze fit a tight extension, shim fitting, or epoxy bedding. It is common for, at a minimum, high temp blue loctite to be used for this purpose.
It is also important to improve rigidity of the whole system. Because of the slower lock time on the triggers, ARs can be more difficult to shoot accurately. Rigid handguards, rigid fit to the receiver, and tight fit to the lower are all things that help reduce stringing off a bipod or inconsistent shooting position/pressure.

End

If you want clarification or expansion on a topic, I can add it in post.
submitted by Trollygag to longrange [link] [comments]

Trollygag's Noob Guide to the 1000 Yard AR-15 (Update)

Foreword:

This was originally written in 2017, but I have updated it to be in line with new entries into the market.
These opinions are based off my own experiences with my own rifles as a long range, non-competitive shooter. These opinions should be largely uncontroversial to the folks who shoot long range, but this is an attempt to codify it rather than having to repeat on every ask.
The guide is targeted for the uninitiated wanted to purchase their first 'long range' rifle and get their feet wet.
If you are a competitive shooter, you know more about your sport than I do, and this guide really isn't for you.
Prices and ballistics are current as of July 5, 2020.

Additional Reading

/longrange
/SmallGroups
/ar15
/6arc
Trollygag's Stats on Barrel Length
Trollygag's Opinion on Picking a Barrel Length
On-Paper Cartridge Comparison
Borescope comparison of barrels
Trollygag's Youtube Channel with some parts review and shooting

Glamour Shots

Super Grendel
Gator Grendel
Savage in F/TR dress
Buddy

I want to buy/build a long range AR-15

5.56 NATO vs 6.5G

223 Rem/5.56 NATO

Good 1000 yard ballistics are hard to get in an AR-15. Even harder if you want it semi-auto as well and want it in a dinky cartridge.
You know when you sneeze in a stream of sunlight and dust goes swirling through the air? That's what shooting 223 Rem is like. Semi-auto is worse as you can't use a lot of the 80gr+ class bullets that beat the wind better than the common 77gr SMK.
I shoot on a 20" Rock Creek barreled LMT SLK8 at 1000 yards every once in awhile, and it is tough to see impacts, tough to make wind calls, tough to hear hits, just tough in general.
The round goes subsonic at about 850 yards. It has to contend with 11 feet of windage for every 10mph of wind/gust. That is brutal.
Cost-wise, yea, there are some cheap options out there for brass case plinking ammo, but box match ammo costs over $1/round and isn't any cheaper than other options. Handloading can save money as bullets and powder charges are typically cheap, but to save money with handloading, the 77 SMKs that are super popular in box ammo are out of the running due to cost.
Fortunately, you can make up some ground with the cheaper 22 cal ELD-Ms or HPBTs if you can get the seating depth right.
I think the newer Hornady bullet options are going to make the 223 Rem/5.56 shine as good as it ever will semi-auto. Then if you want to do some careful load development and shoot single-shot (turn off gas system, for example), then you can really get some decent ballistics.

6.5 Grendel

There are box ammo options like Federal Gold Medal Berger and the Hornady Black that will get you to 1000 yards pretty easily and stay supersonic out to 1150 yards. These cost $1 to $1.25/round depending on how much wind beating you want.
Best case, 7.5 feet of windage for every 10 mph of wind/gust. Except for some of the top heavyweight bullets (think ammo at $2.50/round) out there for 308 Win, those 6.5G box options will beat just about any other 308 Win match ammo options. Pretty good.
There is also $0.22-0.24/round cheap steel case, steel jacket plinking ammo. There are also $0.70/round brass case ammo options.
Unfortunately, there is nothing in-between. There is no FMJ brass case options at $0.35-0.50/round like there are in 308 Win or 5.56.
6.5G is becoming more common in stores, which is great. The box ammo is also really good.
However, it has a reputation for being a finicky cartridge for a handloader as the bullets are often longer ogive than the bullets for longer throat cartridges like 6.5x47L or 6.5CM. That longer ogive makes them harder to get seated right and can be sensitive to how the chamber is cut.
I believe this is changing, as the new 130 Bergers and ELD-Ms seem to be much more chambethroat friendly, with a ogive that is shorter but more compound and curved than the previous generation of 120s that spawned the finicky 123s.
To make a 6.5G AR, you need a different barrel, different bolt (but not bolt carrier), and different magazines. That's it.
Companies like Grendel Hunter have made good shooting Grendels much more accessible.
It is also legal for hunting while some of the other options, like the .224 Valk, are not in many states.
In short, I think 6.5G is good to go.

.224 Valkyrie

This is a new entry on the list from the last guide update. The Valk is a 6.8 SPC-like case necked down to 22 cal.
It can push the 90gr SMK to 2700 FPS from a 24” barrel with impressive ballistics, with the trade to the Grendel being in less barrel life and less drop for less recoil.
Valk had some growing pains with ammo quality control and throat reamers, but now seems to be pretty well sorted out.
However, it is harder to find a well built Valkyrie upper, so you may be rolling your own build.

6 ARC

This is a brand new cartridge from Hornady that you can read about on 6ARC . It is essentially the same cartridge of the now 15+ year old 6AR – 6.5 Grendel necked down to 6mm. One change is that 6ARC has the shoulder pushed back every so slightly vs 6AR, ostensibly for ‘reliability’ (though it isn’t clear how), but more likely so that Hornady can get some claims to inventiveness and to keep you from chambering a Grendel in a 6AR barrel.
One shady aspect is that Hornady did their marketing and advertising with promo videos comparing it to the 6.5 Grendel with the 123gr load. That load is what Hornady has chosen to offer the Grendel in, but which is inferior to the 130gr loads used in handloads and offered by some other companies in box ammo. Why Hornady willfully ignored the popular 130gr loadings and doesn’t offer Grendel ammo with their own 130gr ELD-M is anyone’s guess.
The ballistics are already very well understood for this cartridge, and it will likely offer performance [somewhere inbetween Grendel and Valk](www.shooterscalculator.com/ballistic-trajectory-chart.php?t=730383ff), with velocities and barrel life to match. In short, they’re all basically the same for external ballistics.
We don’t yet know who will be producing brass or what options there will be for ammo, or who will be offering barrels or rifles or uppers for sale, but Odin and CMMG are.
6AR and 6ARC has an advantage over Grendel in that you can buy flat based BR style bullets in 6mm that you can’t find in 6.5mm.

300 BLK/6.8 SPC

These are not long range rounds. Okay, so maybe they perform similarly to the 77 SMK 5.56 on paper or sometimes in practice.
But they cost a lot. Ammo that does that is $1.65/pop for 300 BLK and $1.15/pop for 6.8 SPC. Okay, and 6.8 SPC isn't that much more expensive than the 77 SMK BHA ammo. And it's hunting ammo so it probably is pretty effective.
But, as you can see, both of those options cost about the same as 6.5G and get crushed. It's going to be tough to get the other logistics worked out. What barrel are you going to use? I like long, high accuracy barrels. Not many of those in either 300 BLK or 6.8.
I would not recommend this option, but it would be a fun YOLO build.

Wildcats

There are a lot of these. Some based on the 6.8 case, some based on the PPC case, some in 22 cal for 90gr bullets, some in 6mm... Most of these claim great ballistics but only because they haven't gone through pressure testing and SAAMI hasn't made them figure out bolt thrust numbers.
6.5G went through the same phases, with early data being outrageously hot and good looking on paper, and later data being 'neutered'. You can still get hot loads out of it, but it needs to be in a bolt gun because the AR-15 bolt can't handle that kind of force over and over again.
In that way, some of these are better suited for AKs or the newer AR-10 bolt, AR-15 body hybrids. Or just ignore the wildcats. Most of them don't offer much over 6.5G anyways, and the load data and ammo availability is scarce.

Parts Guide

A long range gun needs sufficient barrel length to get the ballistics you want and barrel quality good enough that you can focus on wind and wind calls and not the inaccuracy of your rifle. In the same vein, you want to eliminate the ammo and human mechanics as much as possible, so typically LR shooters use match ammo and guns that are ergonomic, stable, and easy to shoot accurately.

Budget

Long range shooting can be expensive. A 'cheap' entry level build in 5.56 will likely run about $1000. I typically spend ~40% of the cost of the rifle on an optic, and with mount, that may total closer to $1500 for the complete rifle. Gator Grendel started off as a 'budget' 6.5G build before parts were quite so cheap and with a nice Shilen barrel, and was about $2500. Super Grendel was a more indulgent build and is coming pretty close to $4000.
An off the shelf LMT SLK8 with a 20" Rock Creek cut rifled barrel set up for long range and with a monolithic upper will cost you around $2800.
So get familiar with those kinds of numbers and pick your budget. Typically alternate cartridge LR builds will be a little more expensive (by $100-300) more than the equivalent 5.56 because the barrels tend to be more expensive and often the bolts alone cost as much as a 5.56 BCG.

Barrel

A few names to be familiar with: LaRue, Liberty, Criterion, Bartlein. There are other makes out there, but I feel these present the best rounding out of the options and that are widely available.

Triggers

Optic Choices

There are lots of good optics on the market. All of these are FFP, and have christmas tree reticles.
Keep an eye on the optic sales thread

Optic Mounts

You want a single piece cantilever mount. The AR-15 receiver typically does not have enough rail to give good eye relief, so a 1"+ extension is usually good for getting the scope into a usable position.
Cheap:
The SSALT uses sleeves, the PEPR does not and looks like a chunk of aluminum. SSALT is my preference, though both have worked well for me.
Not Cheap:

Furniture

I have played with a few options:

Building

I'm not going to go over building an AR. There are lots of resources for this. I will, however, give you some tips.
Putting together the AR is pretty cheap and easy... except for the barrel and muzzle device. Both of these have pitfalls.
To mount a muzzle device, you should put the torque on the barrel and only on the barrel. That means a Geissele reaction rod, Magpul BEV block, or barrel vise. People often do this by clamping the receiver. I do it too. It's not a great idea. People end up breaking pins and bending receivers and unscrewing the barrel from the extension.
To mount a barrel, this is the step that requires the most care, forethought, and tools. It requires a vice, nut compatible wrench depending on your nut design, careful application of specially chosen grease, careful alignment, special action block (or reaction rod from above), knowledge of how torque works, and ideally, headspace gauges. If you aren't careful, you can fuck up the nut, receiver, or barrel (if you're very, very special). That can add up to a good bit of money.
You may consider paying a gunsmith to correctly install the barrel and muzzle device. It shouldn't cost much and should be a lot cheaper than doing it yourself, unless your gunsmith is gouging.
Good receiver to barrel extension fit is crucial to avoid stringing. This can be achieved by freeze fit a tight extension, shim fitting, or epoxy bedding. It is common for, at a minimum, high temp blue loctite to be used for this purpose.
It is also important to improve rigidity of the whole system. Because of the slower lock time on the triggers, ARs can be more difficult to shoot accurately. Rigid handguards, rigid fit to the receiver, and tight fit to the lower are all things that help reduce stringing off a bipod or inconsistent shooting position/pressure.

End

If you want clarification or expansion on a topic, I can add it in post.
submitted by Trollygag to ar15 [link] [comments]

Trollygag's Noob Guide to the 1000 Yard AR-15 (Update)

Foreword:

This was originally written in 2017, but I have updated it to be in line with new entries into the market.
These opinions are based off my own experiences with my own rifles as a long range, non-competitive shooter. These opinions should be largely uncontroversial to the folks who shoot long range, but this is an attempt to codify it rather than having to repeat on every ask.
The guide is targeted for the uninitiated wanted to purchase their first 'long range' rifle and get their feet wet.
If you are a competitive shooter, you know more about your sport than I do, and this guide really isn't for you.
Prices and ballistics are current as of July 5, 2020.

Additional Reading

/longrange
/SmallGroups
/ar15
/6arc
Trollygag's Stats on Barrel Length
Trollygag's Opinion on Picking a Barrel Length
On-Paper Cartridge Comparison
Borescope comparison of barrels
Trollygag's Youtube Channel with some parts review and shooting

Glamour Shots

Super Grendel
Gator Grendel
Savage in F/TR dress
Buddy

I want to buy/build a long range AR-15

5.56 NATO vs 6.5G

223 Rem/5.56 NATO

Good 1000 yard ballistics are hard to get in an AR-15. Even harder if you want it semi-auto as well and want it in a dinky cartridge.
You know when you sneeze in a stream of sunlight and dust goes swirling through the air? That's what shooting 223 Rem is like. Semi-auto is worse as you can't use a lot of the 80gr+ class bullets that beat the wind better than the common 77gr SMK.
I shoot on a 20" Rock Creek barreled LMT SLK8 at 1000 yards every once in awhile, and it is tough to see impacts, tough to make wind calls, tough to hear hits, just tough in general.
The round goes subsonic at about 850 yards. It has to contend with 11 feet of windage for every 10mph of wind/gust. That is brutal.
Cost-wise, yea, there are some cheap options out there for brass case plinking ammo, but box match ammo costs over $1/round and isn't any cheaper than other options. Handloading can save money as bullets and powder charges are typically cheap, but to save money with handloading, the 77 SMKs that are super popular in box ammo are out of the running due to cost.
Fortunately, you can make up some ground with the cheaper 22 cal ELD-Ms or HPBTs if you can get the seating depth right.
I think the newer Hornady bullet options are going to make the 223 Rem/5.56 shine as good as it ever will semi-auto. Then if you want to do some careful load development and shoot single-shot (turn off gas system, for example), then you can really get some decent ballistics.

6.5 Grendel

There are box ammo options like Federal Gold Medal Berger and the Hornady Black that will get you to 1000 yards pretty easily and stay supersonic out to 1150 yards. These cost $1 to $1.25/round depending on how much wind beating you want.
Best case, 7.5 feet of windage for every 10 mph of wind/gust. Except for some of the top heavyweight bullets (think ammo at $2.50/round) out there for 308 Win, those 6.5G box options will beat just about any other 308 Win match ammo options. Pretty good.
There is also $0.22-0.24/round cheap steel case, steel jacket plinking ammo. There are also $0.70/round brass case ammo options.
Unfortunately, there is nothing in-between. There is no FMJ brass case options at $0.35-0.50/round like there are in 308 Win or 5.56.
6.5G is becoming more common in stores, which is great. The box ammo is also really good.
However, it has a reputation for being a finicky cartridge for a handloader as the bullets are often longer ogive than the bullets for longer throat cartridges like 6.5x47L or 6.5CM. That longer ogive makes them harder to get seated right and can be sensitive to how the chamber is cut.
I believe this is changing, as the new 130 Bergers and ELD-Ms seem to be much more chambethroat friendly, with a ogive that is shorter but more compound and curved than the previous generation of 120s that spawned the finicky 123s.
To make a 6.5G AR, you need a different barrel, different bolt (but not bolt carrier), and different magazines. That's it.
Companies like Grendel Hunter have made good shooting Grendels much more accessible.
It is also legal for hunting while some of the other options, like the .224 Valk, are not in many states.
In short, I think 6.5G is good to go.

.224 Valkyrie

This is a new entry on the list from the last guide update. The Valk is a 6.8 SPC-like case necked down to 22 cal.
It can push the 90gr SMK to 2700 FPS from a 24” barrel with impressive ballistics, with the trade to the Grendel being in less barrel life and less drop for less recoil.
Valk had some growing pains with ammo quality control and throat reamers, but now seems to be pretty well sorted out.
However, it is harder to find a well built Valkyrie upper, so you may be rolling your own build.

6 ARC

This is a brand new cartridge from Hornady that you can read about on 6ARC . It is essentially the same cartridge of the now 15+ year old 6AR – 6.5 Grendel necked down to 6mm. One change is that 6ARC has the shoulder pushed back every so slightly vs 6AR, ostensibly for ‘reliability’ (though it isn’t clear how), but more likely so that Hornady can get some claims to inventiveness and to keep you from chambering a Grendel in a 6AR barrel.
One shady aspect is that Hornady did their marketing and advertising with promo videos comparing it to the 6.5 Grendel with the 123gr load. That load is what Hornady has chosen to offer the Grendel in, but which is inferior to the 130gr loads used in handloads and offered by some other companies in box ammo. Why Hornady willfully ignored the popular 130gr loadings and doesn’t offer Grendel ammo with their own 130gr ELD-M is anyone’s guess.
The ballistics are already very well understood for this cartridge, and it will likely offer performance [somewhere inbetween Grendel and Valk](www.shooterscalculator.com/ballistic-trajectory-chart.php?t=730383ff), with velocities and barrel life to match. In short, they’re all basically the same for external ballistics.
We don’t yet know who will be producing brass or what options there will be for ammo, or who will be offering barrels or rifles or uppers for sale, but Odin and CMMG are.
6AR and 6ARC has an advantage over Grendel in that you can buy flat based BR style bullets in 6mm that you can’t find in 6.5mm.

300 BLK/6.8 SPC

These are not long range rounds. Okay, so maybe they perform similarly to the 77 SMK 5.56 on paper or sometimes in practice.
But they cost a lot. Ammo that does that is $1.65/pop for 300 BLK and $1.15/pop for 6.8 SPC. Okay, and 6.8 SPC isn't that much more expensive than the 77 SMK BHA ammo. And it's hunting ammo so it probably is pretty effective.
But, as you can see, both of those options cost about the same as 6.5G and get crushed. It's going to be tough to get the other logistics worked out. What barrel are you going to use? I like long, high accuracy barrels. Not many of those in either 300 BLK or 6.8.
I would not recommend this option, but it would be a fun YOLO build.

Wildcats

There are a lot of these. Some based on the 6.8 case, some based on the PPC case, some in 22 cal for 90gr bullets, some in 6mm... Most of these claim great ballistics but only because they haven't gone through pressure testing and SAAMI hasn't made them figure out bolt thrust numbers.
6.5G went through the same phases, with early data being outrageously hot and good looking on paper, and later data being 'neutered'. You can still get hot loads out of it, but it needs to be in a bolt gun because the AR-15 bolt can't handle that kind of force over and over again.
In that way, some of these are better suited for AKs or the newer AR-10 bolt, AR-15 body hybrids. Or just ignore the wildcats. Most of them don't offer much over 6.5G anyways, and the load data and ammo availability is scarce.

Parts Guide

A long range gun needs sufficient barrel length to get the ballistics you want and barrel quality good enough that you can focus on wind and wind calls and not the inaccuracy of your rifle. In the same vein, you want to eliminate the ammo and human mechanics as much as possible, so typically LR shooters use match ammo and guns that are ergonomic, stable, and easy to shoot accurately.

Budget

Long range shooting can be expensive. A 'cheap' entry level build in 5.56 will likely run about $1000. I typically spend ~40% of the cost of the rifle on an optic, and with mount, that may total closer to $1500 for the complete rifle. Gator Grendel started off as a 'budget' 6.5G build before parts were quite so cheap and with a nice Shilen barrel, and was about $2500. Super Grendel was a more indulgent build and is coming pretty close to $4000.
An off the shelf LMT SLK8 with a 20" Rock Creek cut rifled barrel set up for long range and with a monolithic upper will cost you around $2800.
So get familiar with those kinds of numbers and pick your budget. Typically alternate cartridge LR builds will be a little more expensive (by $100-300) more than the equivalent 5.56 because the barrels tend to be more expensive and often the bolts alone cost as much as a 5.56 BCG.

Barrel

A few names to be familiar with: LaRue, Liberty, Criterion, Bartlein. There are other makes out there, but I feel these present the best rounding out of the options and that are widely available.

Triggers

Optic Choices

There are lots of good optics on the market. All of these are FFP, and have christmas tree reticles.
Keep an eye on the optic sales thread

Optic Mounts

You want a single piece cantilever mount. The AR-15 receiver typically does not have enough rail to give good eye relief, so a 1"+ extension is usually good for getting the scope into a usable position.
Cheap:
The SSALT uses sleeves, the PEPR does not and looks like a chunk of aluminum. SSALT is my preference, though both have worked well for me.
Not Cheap:

Furniture

I have played with a few options:

Building

I'm not going to go over building an AR. There are lots of resources for this. I will, however, give you some tips.
Putting together the AR is pretty cheap and easy... except for the barrel and muzzle device. Both of these have pitfalls.
To mount a muzzle device, you should put the torque on the barrel and only on the barrel. That means a Geissele reaction rod, Magpul BEV block, or barrel vise. People often do this by clamping the receiver. I do it too. It's not a great idea. People end up breaking pins and bending receivers and unscrewing the barrel from the extension.
To mount a barrel, this is the step that requires the most care, forethought, and tools. It requires a vice, nut compatible wrench depending on your nut design, careful application of specially chosen grease, careful alignment, special action block (or reaction rod from above), knowledge of how torque works, and ideally, headspace gauges. If you aren't careful, you can fuck up the nut, receiver, or barrel (if you're very, very special). That can add up to a good bit of money.
You may consider paying a gunsmith to correctly install the barrel and muzzle device. It shouldn't cost much and should be a lot cheaper than doing it yourself, unless your gunsmith is gouging.
Good receiver to barrel extension fit is crucial to avoid stringing. This can be achieved by freeze fit a tight extension, shim fitting, or epoxy bedding. It is common for, at a minimum, high temp blue loctite to be used for this purpose.
It is also important to improve rigidity of the whole system. Because of the slower lock time on the triggers, ARs can be more difficult to shoot accurately. Rigid handguards, rigid fit to the receiver, and tight fit to the lower are all things that help reduce stringing off a bipod or inconsistent shooting position/pressure.

End

If you want clarification or expansion on a topic, I can add it in post.
submitted by Trollygag to guns [link] [comments]

DOTA 2 Guide I made for a League player

The Map

The Dota 2 map is divided into the Radiant (green and full of life) and Dire (dark and dying) sides. Summoner's rift has mirrored jungles and symmetric lanes. Dota 2 jungle camps are asymmetric in their arrangement and the lanes are asymmetric in tower positions. There are no bushes to hide in but there are trees to hide behind, but these trees can be cut down.
The Radiant offlane is the top lane and the Radiant safe lane is the bottom lane. The Dire offlane is the bottom lane and the Dire safe lane is the top lane.
An important thing to note in Dota 2 is that here is a difference in Height. The height of the ground on which you stand also affects yours and your allied wards' line of sight. Your ranged auto attacks don't miss but enemies can avoid them either by disjointing them or building an item that grants evasion.

Lanes and Roles

Role distribution is not the same for every game. In League of Legends, most champs are set into one single role (although a lot more champs are able to flex, Riot tries hard to prevent this). In Dota 2, however, you will see a wide variety of heroes go into a wide variety of roles.
To simplify it, Dota divides the roles by farm priority into positions 1 through 5.

Heroes

Just like any MOBA, learning the heroes/champs and their abilities and their ranges takes time. You just need to play more games and get familiarized with them, or demo the heroes you see quite commonly picked in your ELO/MMR.
In game, you can click on an enemy hero and your HUD changes to their HUD and you can see their abilities, cooldowns, damages, ranges (hover over the ability to see the range radius), scaling, etc.,
In Dota 2, Heroes are divided into three categories based on their stats - Strength (STR), Agility (AGI) and Intelligence (INT). Each hero has their own primary attribute. What you need to understand is:
So choose items accordingly to your needs.

Vision

Wards in Dota are a shared resource. Only a few are available in stock and they take a certain amount of time to restock. I don't want to mention numbers because a new patch might either change the cost or stock quantity or restocking duration.
Keeping all these in mind, it would be helpful if you have vision in the areas adjacent to a lane to prepare for an incoming gank or to locate that pesky support laner who is trying to poke you. Ogre Magi has a fairly long range on his DoT ability so, try to stay away from him. However, if you're facing a naturally oppressive laner, try to either play it safe by pulling a side camp to farm safely or trying to poke down the harassing enemy so that he can kindly F off.

Wave Management

Wave management is another beast altogether in Dota. In League, the only wave manipulation is freezing, slow pushing and hard pushing. The only way to achieve this is to either hit minions or don't. In Dota, however, you have a lot more tools at your disposal to either freeze, slow push, hard push, cut waves altogether, etc., Rather than explaining how to freeze, slow push or hard push a wave, I'll explain the different techniques used because you can never achieve one or the other because the enemy laner can also counter it and manipulate the wave to their favour.

Courier, Shop and Items

Most people have a hotkey bound to opening the shop, purchasing an item that you have already stickied and getting it delivered to you by your courier. Since a recent major patch, every hero now has their own courier. Your courier can also be controlled as a unit, and you may have to do this sometimes to save your courier from getting sniped by enemies or if you need the courier to go to the secret shop to purchase certain items that can only be purchased from there. In some cases, you can also use your courier to deliver items to a teammate whose courier had been killed.
I typically use F2 to select courier, F3 to deliver bought items, F4 to open the shop, F5 to buy the stickied items. You can Shift and Left-Click (default) an item in the shop to sticky it. Whenever you accrue enough gold to buy it, you'll hear an audio effect and you can see a gold outline around the item icon. You can Ctrl + Shift + Left-Click to select multiple items. My basic method is to:
This should be simple enough for low MMR games.
There are four shops on the map, one on each team's fountain, and one secret shop each near a bounty rune spawn location. Certain powerful items or components can only be bought at the secret shop, but almost everything else can only be bought from the main shop at the fountain. Players can purchase from any of these shops (yes, even from enemy's fountain shop). Unless you or your courier is near the secret shop you cannot buy the stickied item with your hotkey.
Some general tips for itemization, please take this with a grain of salt and don't use it for every game, this is low MMR thinking:
  1. switch to INT before casting a spell or to deal more damage if you are an INT hero,
  2. SWITCH to AGI for attack speed or damage if you are an AGI hero, and finally
  3. switch to STR to be able to tank more damage or deal more damage if you are a STR hero.
Please note that some items in Dota can be disassembled, for example, you can get Arcane Boots first, and much later you can disassemble it, and use its components to build Aether Lens (increased spell cast range, mana regen and raw mana) and Tranquil Boots (out of combat health regen and movement speed).
A popular strat is to buy Mask of Madness for early to mid game farming, and then disassembling it late game to build Satanic and Butterfly with its components.
This should get you going in general. The best thing you can do is to actually search for a hero on the Dota 2 Wiki page and go to the counters tab. They will show you which hero counters the selected hero and why or how, which heroes the selected hero counters and why or how, synergies with other heroes and items that counter them. This way, itemisation and drafting becomes so much simpler for targeting a specific enemy pick.

Town Portal Scrolls and Boots of Travel

In Dota 2, you either walk all the way to base or teleport there with either a TP Scroll or Boots of Travel. There are few heroes with some form of teleportation abilities but this section only talks about the 90% of the other heroes that don't, and how they could get around the map. Most of the time, you do not need to go back to your base unless you have very low HP or mana or need to defend the base or if your courier died and you need items.
Town Portal Scrolls (TP Scrolls) are items that you can purchase for 50 gold (at the moment). You can cast them for 75 mana, allowing you to channel for 3 seconds to teleport to an allied structure - towers, barracks, other misc structures in base and the Ancient (Nexus). Teleporting to an ally controlled outpost takes a minimum of 6 seconds. Note that multiple units teleporting to the same structure adds a bonus 2 second channel time penalty and 0.5 second for each unit after that.
Teleporting cannot be interrupted unless the unit is CC'd in place. Silencing or displacing the unit with Force Staff or Drow Ranger's Gust does not interrupt the teleport. They have a cooldown of 80 seconds and you can purchase as many as you want.
These are the most essential mobility items as you can teleport to another lane for a surprise gank. Knowing if your enemy laner is missing and reporting as such is extremely crucial. If your ally in another lane is in a compromising position, you need to teleport there to try and help counter gank or save your ally (usually done by supports, cores usually teleport if securing a kill or saving the ally or tower is worth more than the farm they would get by staying in lane).
Boots of Travel is tier 2 boots that allow you to teleport to every location that a TP Scroll can get you to but also to any allied unit that is not a hero (unless you upgrade it). However, unlike League, if the enemy kills the creep that you are teleporting to, your teleportation is interrupted and goes into cooldown. Unlike a TP Scroll, this has a 45 second cooldown but costs the same amount of mana. Boots of Travel's teleportation cooldown is not shared with TP Scrolls.
Teleportation also helps if you need to escape in a jiffy. If the enemies have already blown their CC's you can try to immediately teleport back to base by double tapping the TP Scroll or Boots of Travel. Taking damage does not cancel your teleportation unlike League of Legends.

Neutral Items, Jungle Camps and Roshan

Unlike League of Legends, you don't get any buff for killing a specific jungle camp. Each camp has a specific tier and there are a wide variety of neutral creeps that can be spawned inside them. There aren't any fixed Wolves, Krugs, Raptors, Gromp, etc., camps. Unlike in League of Legends where the jungle monsters, drakes, Rift Herald and Baron Nashor will lose Patience if you aggro it out of its camps causing them to quickly restore HP, neutral creeps and Roshan do not lose patience but will de-aggro if they are too far from their camp. They do not restore HP at a rapid rate upon returning to the camp. This makes disengaging from taking Roshan risky because leaving the pit momentarily does not make it harder for an enemy team to slay it as you would have "leashed" it for them.
There is an old "bug" or feature, which is considered an essential macro feature in Dota 2 right now called Creep Stacking. Neutral creeps spawn within their camps at the minute mark. Holding Alt shows you the bounds of the jungle camp (holding Alt also shows you the true sight radius of sentry wards and the range of towers). If you can manage to aggro the neutral creeps out of this spawn box, such that, the spawn box is empty (no creeps, no units, no heroes and no wards) at the minute mark, new neutral creeps will spawn. If you have done this perfectly and yet no neutral units spawned, then you can safely assume that there is an enemy ward in that box. This is one way to prevent an enemy from stacking and farming, also called blocking camps.
Ideally, with enough skill, you can double stack or even triple stack these camps. Some heroes have abilities that allow you to stack for more (looking at Admiral Bulldog's Kunkka clip, among many other heroes). This allows you to farm more gold and experience in shorter amount of time than you would be able to in League. However this also requires awareness of the in game time and your surroundings.
Neutral Items are items looted from jungle camps, you do not pay for them. You have a dedicated item slot for neutral items, and they are shareable with your teammates. There is also a neutral stash in your base, that you can teleport the items to if you do not need it. Your allies can choose from there should they decide to do so. You can only have one neutral item, any extra items will be sent to your backpack and are disabled as all items in the backpack usually are.
Neutral items are divided into 5 tiers. Tiers 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 start spawning from minutes 7, 15, 25, 40 and 60 respectively. These items will drop up to a maximum of four per tier. If you have not obtained 4 neutral items by the time the next tier has started to drop, you will still be able to get the previous tier items, but RNG will prefer to drop higher tier items first.
Tier 5 items are extremely powerful and it's a matter of who gets the neutral item first or better neutral item that decides the game. These items are designed to help end the game with this huge item power spike.
Roshan is the only main raid boss objective in Dota 2 unlike League where you have the Elemental Drakes, Rift Heralds and Baron Nashor. Roshan drops a few items upon death.
The Aegis of Immortal is not shareable and only the hero that picked it up gains its passive - revive with full HP and Mana upon death. If the holder does not die within ten minutes of picking it up, it will expire restoring the holder's health and mana to full. It also takes up one item slot. This is generally considered essential when you want to seige Tier 3 Towers (similar to Nexus Turrets) as they are on higher ground.
Cheese is a shareable item and can be stowed away in the backpack if you want to. You can consume it to instantly restore your health and mana to full.
Refresher Shard is another shareable consumable item that can be consumed to refresh all your ability and item cooldowns except Refresher Orb (purchasable item with the same active but costs mana to activate and has a long cooldown).
Aghanim's Blessing is another shareable item but it gets consumed immediately when placed in your active inventory granting you your Hero specific Aghanim's Blessing upgrade (IceFrog, still waiting on Void Spirit's and Snapfire's aghs please).
The Cheese and Refresher Shard can only be sold by the one who picked them up first for 500 gold each, but the other two item drops cannot be sold.

Abilities and Talent Trees

Heroes in Dota 2 can level up to 30 but most games don't end up there, and you'd have to be really efficient at gaining experience and gold to reach there even in a long 45-60 minute game. There is no 1 passive and 4 active ability template for every Hero in Dota 2. Most heroes in Dota 2 have 4 abilities, some of them are passive and some are active. There are some heroes that have more than 4 ablities or have abilities that grant different effects based on certain conditions. However, for newcomers, go with the easy Heroes. Filter the hero selection page by Level 1 Difficulty Heroes. Most of these have 4 abilities as mentioned.
For these typical heroes, you gain a skill point at each level and they can usually be upgraded 4 times. You can unlock your ultimate ability at level 6 and upgrade it twice at levels 12 and 18. At levels 10, 15, 20 and 25, you can choose a talent from your hero specific talent tree. However, at level 30, all the talents that you hadn't selected are also unlocked for free.
Unlike League of Legends that has the Runes and Summoner Spell system, Dota 2 has the Talent Tree system that is unique to each Hero. So you are not forced into a certain play style because of your choice of Runes and Summoner Spells. However, you may have to alter your playstyle come mid game based on your choices in the Talent Tree.

Gold, Experience and Outposts

Gold can be obtained through the following ways:
These are ways to obtain gold. It's also important to understand that gold is divided into Reliable Gold and Unreliable Gold.
Dying causes you to pay out gold from your unreliable gold pool. You pay for items using unreliable gold first, so it may be advisable to buy items right before you die.
There is NO UNDO button in the shop in Dota 2. Once you buy or sell an item, you cannot undo your action. You may, however, sell a bought item within the first 10 seconds if you haven't used it for full price. If you use the item or after 10 seconds of purchasing it, you can only sell them for half the price, which isn't as gold inefficient as League is.
Your typical League build for, say an ADC like Ashe, would be:
At no point would you sell any of these items except for the ones that are italised (emphasized). This will usually be your late game build. However in Dota 2, your build for a core player like Juggernaut would be (please note, Dota 2 is heavily situational and this will vary drastically):
This is one extremely specific build that won't work always. However, the point I am trying to emphasize is that you purchase cheaper mid game items to make yourself effective enough in fights and farming so that you can buy the stronger late game items. You need to learn to transition with itemisation and cannot just simply rush for your late game item early on. These items have a significant spike in your ability to either farm or fight at an early game. Not having these mid game items will severely handicap you and will only delay your late game build further.
Buyback - buyback is a mechanic in Dota 2 where you can instantly respawn at the fountain upon death by paying some gold. The cost for buying back increases over time. Once you buyback, you cannot buyback again for a prolonged period of time. This may be crucial if you died too early in a teamfight and getting back in the team fight by buying back will actually make a significant difference in the outcome of the fight or if you need to defend your base as a last ditch effort. Please do not use this feature unnecessarily as the dieback (dying shortly after buying back) results in an even longer death time and is generally a huge loss in gold. Yes, death times can go higher than 120 seconds, so try to play safe and defensively in the late game if you are behind or have no vision.
Experience can be obtained through the following ways:
Comebacks - The formula for hero kills reward (both gold and experience) involves a Comeback Factor, meaning that if a team is quite far behind the enemy team in net worth, the rewards for getting a kill is multiplied per 1000 gold they are behind. So yes, comebacks are way more common in Dota 2 than in League. So make sure to finish the game if you're team is leading and snowballing, before the enemies gain a chance to fight on even ground.
Outposts - these are structures present on opposing sides of each jungle that grant experience every 10 minutes to the team that captured it last. This is an objective in Dota 2 that can be captured (similar to capturing the flag games) after 10 minutes into the game.
Outposts provide, to the team that captured them last,:
You capture them by right clicking on them and channeling for some duration (similar to Skarner's crystals), and the channel time decreases per extra ally capturing it. Outposts also count towards allied structures that a hero can teleport to with either a teleport scroll or Boots of Travel.

For other fundamental mechanics guide and basics of DOTA, you can check out Purge's video series (they're kinda old, and by that I mean the patch he made those on are quite different, but most of the mechanics should work just fine - major things that don't exist in the current patch are Side Shops, each hero has their own courier, the map has changed drastically, new objectives - Outposts).
Learn Dota Basics
Learn Dota
If anybody would like to suggest edits or changes, feel free to do so. I'm not a pro or high MMR player.
Edit: Corrected the fade delay misinformation in the post. More edits are on the way.
Edit: Added more info (Lanes and Roles, Heroes, Abilities and Talent Trees), corrected some wrong information and removed some of the ambiguity.
Edit: Corrected some more information and added some info on how roles are divided into positions, especially in high mmr or pro games.
Edit: I've added more sections about the map and the terrain regarding high ground and vision, jungle camps, neutral items, Roshan, outposts, deny mechanic and teleportation.
P.S. I plan on rearranging sections to make it more cohesive and sequential. I also need to rewrite parts for brevity while still maintaining clarity, all while maintaining the 40k character limit. Please let me know if you think I have missed on other core game mechanics that you think are important to know for a new player, coming from League. Thank you.
Special thanks to u/D3Construct for helping me out with the roles and lanes sections of this guide.
Also, thank you to the people who gave me the reddit awards. I am not sure how they work or what to do with them but I appreciate the gesture.
submitted by Incertam7 to DotA2 [link] [comments]

The PvE Endgame Sucks. Let's Fix It.

I am not a game designer. My coding experience is limited to SQL, a little PowerShell, and a predictable mix of HTML/CSS/JS. Even that listing sounds much fancier than it really is.
What I am is a gamer. It's not uncommon for me to push near 40 hours a week. It's a lot, but between streaming and keeping up on my own gaming, I put a lot of time into my hobby. For the last several years, (D1 beta veteran - didn't have a PS3/4 to join the alpha), Destiny has been a staple in my gaming habit addiction. I've taken breaks when things were rough (D2Y1, Season of the Drifter), but I've always been here. All this to say, I've played a lot of a wide variety of games. I've seen every part of the quality spectrum from every part of the gaming landscape. I understand that games are defined by what they fail to do well just as much as what they do well - and they can sometimes even be better because of their failings. I am not averse to a game with some rough edges.
Right now, the franchise is in a very rough place. It's very possibly in the worst place it's ever been. I'm genuinely concerned about the game's future, and... Well, there are a lot of issues. A LOT. Most of them have been discussed to death and back: Possible repercussions of sunsetting. Lackluster rewards from - and general lack of relevancy of - core activities. The artifact/Champions forcing builds and stifling player expression. Technical issues galore. Over-emphasis of Eververse. Stale PvP sandbox. Trials releasing half-baked even when it was in the oven long enough to burn to a crisp. List continues.
One that I don't see getting enough attention or suggestions is the endgame. Ladies, gentlemen, and the various valid alternatives... it's bad, people. It's really bad. And I have some ideas that I've been working on for a few weeks now. I'd like to share them.

The Endgame Problem

One raid a year. I could say this is bad and end the post here, but it would just be another rant thread and there's too many of those. We're here to give constructive feedback. And, anyway, that's not the end of the problems.
One raid a year. One big, headlining thing to do for 12 months. It's not enough, flat-out.
One dungeon a year. See above. It's the same issue. (Stupid simple solution: Release the Dungeon six months later!)
Every exotic being handed to us. It's not interesting getting handed everything. Remember D1 when you could get anything from any activity? That was exciting. I've had everything in D2 for over a year.
Grandmaster Nightfalls fell flat. I don't need more text here. They just did.
Whether we wanted it or not, we've stepped into a mess of an endgame. So let's get to taking out the issues, one by one.

Raid Rewards - The Problem(s)

I already mentioned that one raid a year isn't nearly enough. But there are other problems as well. Namely, the rewards.
Now, don't get me wrong, the guns from Garden of Salvation are great. I use the Bow pretty often, the Hand Cannon feels at home in my hand, I have a fun roll on the Auto Rifle... In fact, it's really easy to get great rolls on weapons from the raid because the perk pools are small in each column. There's good and bad about that. It felt amazing in the early days of Shadowkeep, getting new guns and each one held potential to be something special. Thumbs up. But as the year has progressed, there is less and less incentive to run the raid, because we have everything and are just running it for infusion fuel. Thumbs down.
Another issue with raid rewards is sunsetting. We don't know anything about how sunsetting affects raid gear, but we know that it's different. We could use some clarification around this, and I suspect we'll get it soon. But with the Last Wish weapons still being viable, that means we're getting a long time with them, maybe.
And the last thing for the guns, why should I go for the raid guns? What sets them apart from anything else available to us, even after sunsetting starts? They're not really any different, aside from a unique perk combination here or there. Which, let's be honest, is the same for every legendary in the game.
And finally, armor. Aside from pinnacle drops, there's nothing that makes it stand out aside from a slightly higher chance to roll high and spiky. I don't think this is a bad thing, in that armor is fashion as much as it is stats. But it's still boring.
So, what can we do about that? What can we do to stretch the grind for god rolls without making it feel unfair? What can we do about making weapons feel like a better investment for the future without making everything else feel like a waste of time? What can we do to make guns from the raid feel like they're rewards from the pinnacle PvE challenge? And what in the world can we do about armor?

Raid Rewards - The Solution

First up: Sunsetting. Everything else last 4 seasons. Give raid gear 6, so there's some overlap from raid to raid, but there's an incentive to trade up once the time comes. That's all I have to say about that.
I don't think the armor should be hands down better than any other armor. Like I said above, fashion. High and spiky stat distributions is great in my book. But also, if you want to wear the raid armor, that should be a symbol of your accomplishments in the raid. Just getting the armor isn't a feat in and of itself, so I propose we make it drop a copy of itself as an ornament, so you can have any piece of armor look like the raid armor when you earn it. But additionally, this ornament has a tracker on it that counts your raid completions. As you rack up more and more completions, the armor will become more ornate and impressive. Gilded with gold, emblazoned with glows, studded with spikes, whatever fits the theme. Bungie is good at making pretty things, this should be a slam dunk.
Imagine if this was in place for Crown of Sorrow. You're in the Tower, cursing Tess's existence, and a gilded Guardian strolls in, blinding you with his opulent glory. Calls back memories of seeing someone in Chatterwhite or Glowhoo, doesn't it?
But if we're going to encourage repeat runs of the raid, we need to reward repeat runs as well, and this is where my raid weapon proposal comes in. My idea to make raid weapons unique, deserving of their pinnacle status, and yet still draw out the hunt for the perfect god roll? Give them a third perk slot. Boom. They are immediately the most desirable weapons in the game, even if that third slot is relegated to only being things like Field Prep, Snapshot, or other things that don't impact the TTK.
In GoS, guns have a perk pool of two slots with four possible perks for each. That's 4x4=16 unique variations, not including the different mags and such, which are not as important to the majority of players. Adding another slot is 4x4x4=64 unique combinations. Yes, getting the 'One Roll to Rule Them All' is significantly less likely, but you have a 1/16 chance of getting two of the perks you're looking for. The god roll hunt will be long, but you'll still have a top-tier gun while you keep grinding.
So now we have raids in an exciting place, but that's not the only engame PvE activity...

Grandmaster Nightfalls - The Problem(s)

Grandmaster Nightfalls were an opportunity for Bungie to create an endgame activity that we would be excited to aspire to. Instead, the community has responded with disinterested apathy, and the mode has only served to highlight the existing frustrations with the current PvE experience. (Forced builds and playstyles, lackluster rewards, etc.)
So they missed the mark. Let's go over the mark they were trying to hit, shall we?

Grandmaster should be watchable

Grandmaster should be watchable

OH, WOW... This could not be further from the truth, and honestly, it points to a very deep misunderstanding of the game. In the world of PvE, there are two things that are very watchable: World's First raids/dungeons/secret quests, and community puzzles. What is it that makes these things watchable?
It's not hiding behind a rock taking pot shots at red bars that one shot you, that's for damn sure.
Some of it is the challenge, sure. But it's about the novelty, the discovery, the teamwork, and the race. GM Nightfalls are running tired content full of bullet sponges and no rewards. It lacks any of the exhilarating pizzaz of the things that DO pump up the viewer numbers on Twitch.
So, how can we fix these issues?

Grandmaster Nightfalls - The Solution

Well, I have an idea, but I'd like to reiterate that I am not a game designer. I'd like to be, but I am not. At least not currently. (Hire me Bungie!)
Though I am not a game designer, I have been gaming and following the industry and doing my own development for long enough that I more than understand that things are never as simple to implement as anyone - even seasoned devs - thinks they will be. My suggestion to overhaul GM Nightfalls will never happen in three months, and it might not even be possible in the D2 engine at all. I get that. I'm wishing, and suggesting. And I understand that this suggestion is a doozy. (AKA, you think it'll take 6 months, and it's actually a 2.5 year process. I know how Development Time™ works.)
Modular three-man raid encounters.
Alright, let's unpack that concept. I propose using the Infinite Forest - it's a huge void you can throw any geometry you want into. Make 5 fairly generic bosses. They can all be Vex, if you want. Giant Minotaur, giant Harpy, giant Hydra, off-brand Aetheon, hell, make a huge Hobgoblin. Then, make 5 arenas. Different enough to feel different, at least. Now, the catch: Make a bunch of mechanics with generic triggers. What do I mean by this? Let's look at one set of three mechanics:
The boss does [bossActivation], which gives each player an Arc/SolaVoid attunement. They must navigate to the color-coordinated plates around the arena to activate [phaseOneComplete], which spawns a bunch of goblins and a Hydra with a full shield. The Goblins drop orbs, which break the shield around the Hydra. Killing it activates [phaseTwoComplete], which spawns the Vault of Glass Aegis, which allows nearby teammates to pierce the boss's shield and deal damage. Repeat if the team doesn't one-cycle.
Great! We have a working encounter with some light mechanics. It's novel (the first time), there's discovery (as each thing comes up), and teamwork. I'll hold off on explaining how it fulfills being a race for now. But there's still an issue: It's only novel the first time. But... what if there was more than one first time? That's why you have a bunch of mechanics with generic triggers. Maybe the above description is week one on the New Grandmaster Nightfall. But week two is different:
The boss does [bossActivation], which spawns the Aegis and a Hydra. Now, the Aegis enables damage against the Hydra. Killing it triggers [phaseOneComplete], which sends out a shockwave giving each player an Arc/SolaVoid attunement. Go to matching plates, [phaseTwoComplete]. The Goblins spawn, killing them drops orbs that damage the boss's shield, enabling damage against it. Repeat if the team doesn't one-cycle.
Each week, this system builds a 'new' raid-like encounter out of building blocks. 'Infinite' new content, in a sense. With just 4 of these modules, you have enough to make each week in a season unique from the others. Yes, mechanics will be repeated, but they'll be unique permutations. (Though, maybe have a few more than that.) The real beauty of this system? Add 2-3 more of these mechanic modules every season, and you're creating exponentially more permutations for the same amount of work each time.
So we have novelty worked out - the encounter is somewhat different every week. We have discovery worked out - each week brings a new set of mechanics that people will want to figure out and optimize. And we have teamwork worked out by virtue of being raid-like. But what about the race? Well... that brings me to the rewards, actually.
Each week has a World's First. Give these fine Guardians a round of applause, a guaranteed exotic, a few upgrade materials, and an emblem with the week number. Immortalize their names on a running list of the first Guardians to rise to the challenge on bungie.net. Celebrate their achievements. And then, challenge them.
Each week has a time trial leaderboard. At the end of the week, the fastest X teams get an exotic, a few upgrade materials, and a different-colored emblem with the week number. Immortalize these Guardians on a running list of the paragons of efficiency within our community on bungie.net. Celebrate their achievements.
Either way, every first completion for the week on each character grants a pinnacle reward for that character, so it's rewarding for everyone - even the people that don't want to chase WF or a time trial record.
There's other problems in PvE, for sure, but the endgame has felt especially bare-bones for the last six months. I've gotten everything worth getting from the Garden, and the Raid, Dungeon, and GM Nightfall are just pinnacles to feed into my existing gear. There's not actually a lack of aspirational activities so much as there is absolutely no reason to do them. Better, unique rewards that are worth a long chase is what will keep us engaged, not spamming Champions and bullshit forced metas and 'kill 20 rats' bounties at us for the entire year.
I don't expect this to happen, but man... Destiny needs change, and for that, Bungie needs feedback. Take this as my feedback.
submitted by Takarias to DestinyTheGame [link] [comments]

MIDAS - Matt Eros

MIDAS - Matt Eros
https://preview.redd.it/97bml6kfq9i51.jpg?width=4830&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=80639e62604a0e511587ae3283a7f818c7bebf45
https://preview.redd.it/tmp2z7kfq9i51.jpg?width=5000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2ac6ff11f7a21186704b586b6b336472354ad85a
https://preview.redd.it/61tdk378t9i51.jpg?width=5000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9818157f88a76d7e212e4f3420a12767d9cf773b
Name : Matt Eros [ Matthew Midas ]
Race: Demi-god
Occupation: Student/Part-timer
Affiliation: Anti-hero / Villain
Villian Alias: Midas
Age: 17
Abilities:
Superhuman Strength( Godslayer Strength[Mid Rank] )- Inherited mainly from his father, his strength is nowhere near compared to the Godslayer King, Midas but it is enough to subdue demigods and heroes alike. Through tempering and Tribulation his strength will grow, just like his father in ages past.
Gold Transmutation - he is able to turn objects he touches to gold at will, however these constructs only remain as gold for as long as they remain in contact with him, or if not, for 15 minutes.
He is able to control the time something is transmuted to and may shorten it at will.
There is no cool-down for how much times he can use this ability or the mass he can transmute, other than the object must be in physical contact with his flesh in some way.
When golden, they function as if time was stopped for the object or body part which was turned. Damage to the limb or golden object is reflected when the effect wears off (if a man's arm is turned gold and it is twisted, the bones will break when he turns back to flesh)
The longest he can turn a person to gold is 10 minutes and this varies greatly depending on the amount of Force(God or King) residing in the person.
For example, he may be able to make Aqualyn a Statue for 2-3 minutes, but only be able to turn Zilarius's Left arm to gold for 1 - 10 seconds
Curse: Gorgon's Golden Eyes - allows him to permanently transmute any object into gold on sight, however in his current state, he cannot use this ability without a harm to his physical body and a cascade of golden, bloody rivers flowing down his frame.
One day he may be able to use the ability at will, without self-harm, but that day is long to come.
Passively, it he can turn things he stares at to gold, without self-harm, but it requires him to stare at the object for obscene amounts of time. The greatest example of this being, the golden strands of hair which obstruct his vision.
Force(God or King) restrictions apply. A larger God or King Force will result in more damage to his body on attempting it. If he were to try to turn Zialrius into a full gold statue, he'd die of blood loss and internal damage. This ability may be able to kill a Demi-God, but the backlash would still be intense depending on their Force.
Easier to just clobber them on the head with a WarHammer
Bio:
In a time long past the formidable King Midas rebelled against the gods and felled a God of Greed. In his action, he ascended his entire kingdom to a realm above the mortal plane. Midas was reborn, the god's power rejuvenated his body, gray hair turned golden blonde and body returning to his Prime. Midas grew arrogant in his success, he attempted to seize all of the God Force at once and, in doing so, made a grave mistake.
The God's power ran wild in Midas body, turning all he touched to gold, Midas could not eat, could not drink and could not even embrace his loved ones. He isolated himself in the palace, refusing physical contact till his hubris ran its course and he could once again control himself. He could not die, after all.
A lack of death does not mean the absence of its claws nor the marks and scars they leave. Midas grew thin, his skin turned pale from isolation. His blonde hair turned a filthy, dirty black, caked in filth and year by year, the gold around him darkened.
Enough time passed and he regained the control his unchained ambition lacked. This King Midas had two sons. The fates had a sense of humor, it seemed.
One son embodied his triumph, a glowing baby boy with golden hair and soft blue eyes, though he appeared to inherit none of his father's abilities, save for his strength. He was born of King Midas' Queen.
The King's Consort beheld a boy whose existence mocked him, representing his hubris and his lowest point. Sickly pale skin and hair black as bog-mud, yet his piercing golden eyes and touch was unmistakable proof he was Midas' progeny. And also, perhaps, a prodigy.
The Queen was furious, the cruel joke played on her son was too much to bear. So she acted.
A snake was placed in the death-child's crib, only to join his toys as a new golden figurine. Poison was tried, yet the blasted infant inherited his father's immunity to toxins. An assassination attempt was made, and subsequently, an addition to King Midas' collection of golden statues. The assailant fallen by the boy's accursed gorgonic gaze.
In a fit of rage, she threw the infant to the mortal realm below, banishing the infernal creature and securing her son's place as Crown Prince. Wolves take that accursed menace.
The boy was found and taken to an orphanage, branded a 'Matt Eros' by the caretaker, a middle aged woman by the name of Silvia Eros, and lived accordingly with the other children. As he grew, however, he began to realize he was much different than his peers. With a single finger he hospitalized a would-be assailant and, similarly, his accursed gaze almost turned his own legs to gold.
His goal was to go to school and become accomplished enough to get a job that paid well enough for him to help the orphanage, the place which gave him a chance at life.
Alas, the building was seized and the children put out. Their eviction was almost in tandem with Mrs.Sylvia's disappearance. Luckily he had an amount saved to rent an area for them, but part time work wouldn't cover them forever. He tried to apply to become a hero's apprentice, but the job didn't pay at all, in fact, it would appear that being a full-fledged hero wasn't worth much in terms of money.
He couldn't even scam people with his gold, it worked a few times but before long, someone somewhere thought him suspicious and lo and behold, he found himself being pursued by the heroes he once attempted to join.
So he turned to crime, specifically bank heists and big hits. He was in it for the money, collateral damage be damned, he had scores a' kids depending on him. He'd try to avoid too much destruction it where possible, but those flashy heroes just wouldn't let him.
Though secretly, he enjoyed the fights, the thrill of a good, thorough beat-down, the golden blood cascading out of his injuries as he socked JudgeMan right in the jaw with a Morning-star. Or getting a molar knocked out when Light-Chaser suckered him with a speedy hook. Smashing the runner with a building was surprisingly satisfying. The look of abject terror on his face was priceless.
Nothing could beat that rush.
Absolutely nothing.
Fighting Style:
-whipping his strands of red cloth in the air and transmuting the ends of them into gold so they build momentum and hit people.
-Turns limbs into gold to impair movement and stamina as, Gold is heavy.
-Plating parts of their bodies in gold.
-Throwing his cape in front of him and transmuting the falling cloth to metal to use as a shield.
-Touching air molecules to form golden weapons, Doctor Strange The Cartoon Movie Style[https://youtu.be/NZ9WlV4nEvw?list=PLkLimRXN6NKw7LHsSu2jv3_LfBRJVc9nR 1:32] (This is taxing as it is hard to use his ability on the air itself) (usually makes a hammer or morning star or flail to best take advantage of gold's weight and momentum capabilities)
-His style consists of lots of brute force, mostly boxing. The only kick he would ever try is a low kick and that's usually a distraction from the large, heavy chunk of gold about to smack them in the head from above.
Personality: Confident, often appearing Pompous to the point of Arrogance. He embodies the "Charismatic Noble" to a T. The 'charismatic' part being quite defined, such as that one time he convinced a crowd of people in the bank he was robbing that bomb-rushing the speedster Hero was a good idea.
If you somehow get past his somewhat dramatic behavior, he is actually quite sweet of a person, if, a bit cautious for those around him.
He sees the orphan children like small pieces of glass compared to him, given, he's not exactly wrong when comparing durability and comabtiveness, but he still goes a bit overboard with protectiveness.
All things considered, he is still just a 17 year old kid himself, case in point, when advanced upon(romantically or otherwise) , he will remain pompous, however he will act suspiciously shy.
-His costume is armor inherited from his father, not that he knows this, to him, it simply appeared on his doorstep when he first began contemplating a life of crime. He has no clue of the origins of his costume, nor his heritage.
-Decided to use Mercury's Staff as the center chest decoration cause he represented trade, the symbol is primarily Greek and, Trade means gold.
-Full costume is the image where the chest piece has the caduceus on the center.
  • Sweatpants + hoodie = Casual wear.
  • Hair = Muddy black, Skin = pale.
submitted by Terraformer1021 to RodrigoLee [link] [comments]

Carvana error = I can now only buy a car from Carvana

Long, long story, with multiple glaring system/customer service issues. TL;DR Carvana:
  1. initially sold me a car that didn't exist
  2. sold me another car with consistent, audibly bad brakes that somehow passed their "rigorous 150pt inspection"
  3. created a situation that has now resulted in an active unpaid car loan showing on my credit despite return(ing the bad-brakes-car weeks ago) that will persist for another 30-90 days, precluding me from qualifying for another auto loan, including one from Carvana
Ok. First time car buyer. Liked Carvana because I'm a startup guy myself, 7d return policy sounded great as someone who really doesn't know cars, and reviews were solid.
I was pretty sure I wanted an Audi Q5, but also considering an A5 sportback or a Mercedes GLA. Carvana consistently has plenty of the former and latter in inventory.

The car that didn't exist

I settled on a GLA to start, knowing I can have at least one more test drive. Idea being I'm pretty sure I'll want the Q5 so better to get the GLA, return it, and then get the Q5 because should I keep it that's one less delivery for them.My partner and I were planning on taking a 2d trip to the mountains, so this was perfect to test the vehicle (I'm currently in a Scion TC coupe, and the whole point is to get an SUV for mountain/hike drives).
Ordered the GLA I'd want. If I love it, I'll keep it, if I don't, I'll trade for a Q5 and then make the call. If an A5 Sportback became available, even better. Easy peasy. This was a 'partner inventory vehicle' with a disclaimer that they need to confirm the car is still available, but I got the confirmation emails and my Carvana account showed my new car was confirmed for delivery Wednesday, just before we leave for the mountains Fri. Perfect.
Orrrrr not. I get an email several days later in HTML (interesting, not from their typical front-end, literally plain text HTML) stating that there's an issue and the car is no longer available in partner inventory.
I log in to carvana.com and see the car is showing as still confirmed for Wed delivery.
I call in to ask what's going on and how we can remedy (I'm happy to pick a diff vehicle). Agent tells me the car will be delivered Wed. I try to convince them this isn't the case, and read them the email I received (again, plain HTML which stood out from their standard marketing/branded emails). I was told everything was fine, look forward to having my car Wednesday!
I had to call back in multiple times to finally convince them to look into the possibility that my car was not actually available and that a disconnect between their partner inventory systems and the systems that populate their internal and customer front-end was likely messed up (I've literally consulted for tech companies to fix things like this).My primary concern was that I would not receive the vehicle in time to test drive for our trip, and I pushed them to reserve another vehicle (there just happened to be the perfect A5 sportback available). They could not do this, as they kept promising the GLA would arrive Wednesday.
...until they came back and said you're right that car was already sold. Also the A5 sportback that you asked us to reserve is now reserved for another customer...
Total time spent on hold or on the phone w Carvana: ~6hrs

The "150pt inspected" car with bad brakes

So I reserved a Q5 just in time to get it before our trip. Had to call in a few times as their site became very glitchy and would show inconsistent delivery dates.
Q5 got here, handoff went off without a hitch (well, except when the white delivery agent made a racist comment to me, a person of color, while also complaining about wearing a mask...)
Partner and drive to the mountains, love the car, decide we're definitely keeping it... until we had the windows down driving through a mountain town. The brakes squealed LOUDLY. I pulled up to the next stop and braked; same thing. 100% consistent every time wailing brakes.
Now that we know to look (listen?) for it, we both can hear the brakes even with the windows up.
I call in to return the vehicle as soon as we get home (well technically, the day after; we got home from a relaxing short 'lets-not-think-about-how-shitty-the-world*-is-right-now' break only to have a karen call the cops on me for having our small border collie off-leash, held in between my legs while ordering from a food truck 5ft in front of our home... but that's another story).
Carvana agent tells me that before he can process the return, I should call Silver Rock, their third-party warranty company, to inspect the vehicle and potentially repair it, for free. I say I'm very concerned that if the 150pt inspection missed audibly bad brakes, I'm not sure I trust that the car is both of quality and safe. He tells me I can have them perform a full inspection.
I tell him we're on day 6 of their 7 day return policy and I'm concerned about exceeding the return window; he guarantees me they can be flexible with the policy and he'll be notating my account to ensure it's clear Carvana asked me to go beyond the window.
I go to Midas, Silver Rock's partner, and get the full inspection and the brakes repaired. He first charges me $860 and when I bring up I was told this would be $0 out of pocket for me, he instead charges me $60. A 'copay' of sorts. Whatever.He also tells me that based on the 19k miles on this car and the condition of the brake rotors, this car was driven to shit.
I have to call Carvana multiple times and talk to multiple agents to get them to take the vehicle back, because it's "outside the 7 day return window." It takes an escalation team listening to the call where I was told this would be fine to have them finally initiate a return for the car.
Positive note: Keshawn (sp?) who picked up the car was awesome.
\the US. how shitty the united states of america is right now... the world is doing ok in many places...*

The zombie car loan

So great. The car is returned. I give it a few days and check in with Bridgecrest, the loan company, to confirm everything is good. They say they've received the initial info from Carvana and will have everything processed to nullify the loan and return my payment by the end of the week. Carvana says the same.
I apply for auto loan pre-approvals because at this point I'm not interested in buying from Carvana. All are rejected. Weird. My credit isn't great right now (~630s... dropped ~100pts because an old credit union I don't actively use reported two late payments for balances on an unused line of credit that were incurred due to system error and without my knowledge; dispute in progress, they admit there's nothing I could have done).
This is a long ass post so the short of it is I had to make multiple calls into both Carvana and Bridgecrest and eventually get both on the same phone call (skipping several of my actual work meetings to ensure everyone can stay on the line bc callbacks aren't real)... to discover that the Carvana/Bridgecrest loan shows as still active and unpaid on my credit history.
Bridgecrest finally sent me a 'buyback letter' confirming the car has been returned and that they have submitted a request to have the loan removed form my credit report (after I followed up three times after being told it would be sent three times). But this letter doesn't help at all. Car loan approvals are automated and cannot take qualitative information into account. INCLUDING CARVANA'S
They won't be able to fix this with the credit bureaus for 30-90 days. Even CARVANA sent me a rejection letter saying I am no longer qualified for a loan.
After multiple escalation callback requests I finally got a call back today from Carvana: this situation happened because they pushed me out of the 7d return window; they promised that had I returned the car within the 7d none of this would have happened (who knows, not sure I believe it but I don't see other complaints of Carvana returns resulting in an outstanding loan on your credit history).
So Carvana offered me one option: they could try and work with Bridgecrest to secure another loan for me (they couldn't guarantee me the same pre-carvana-fuckup rate), to buy another vehicle from Carvana. They could offer me ...$250 off the admin fees and a check for... $100 for the trouble, and maybe I'll have a car from their inventory (none of which are cars I'm interested in) in... three weeks.
Waiting on a call back from their 'executive response team' for some 'creative solutions.' Will update

Basically, try carvana's "7 day return policy" at your own risk of being locked into buying a car from carvana from a limited inventory that they do not properly inspect.

And if you must, **insist\\** that they accept returns rather than push you out of the 7d window with guarantees that everything will be fine.
Also it's been 10 days (7 business days) and I still don't have my Midas reimbursement or my down payment back...
Also also, don't expect callbacks from Carvana (something they require for escalation) or through their "hit 1 to get a call back instead of waiting on hold" feature. 50% of the time it just doesn't happen and you lose a day.Also, their "an agent will be with you in less than X minutes" thing is entirely off. "five minute" wait times took ~20.
submitted by everythingstriangles to carvana [link] [comments]

Why did the CAR WIZARD get a car he hates?!? - YouTube Como pagar as mensalidade MIDAS TREND How To Auto-Trade or Robot Trade Bitcoins  Trading ... MIDAS TREND INTERNACIONAL INVESTIMENTO DE 50 MIL NO BOT MIDAS

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Why did the CAR WIZARD get a car he hates?!? - YouTube

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